A Very "God Jul" in Sweden

To my Swedish friend Harald Carlsson, Christmas is the biggest holiday of the year. His enthusiasm for the season easily competes with Will Ferrell’s character in the movie Elf. During December, Harald is the Christmas sprit embodied. I knew this previously, having known him and our American friend John for over a year now, but I never understood the depth and breadth of the Christmas holiday in Sweden. A holiday seeped in tradition, Christmas this year was more than I could ever imagine.

            First thing about Christmas in Sweden is that it is actually on the 24^th, and the 25^th is more about going out and seeing friends. Since his family is separated, we had double the celebration, starting with a meal and presents at his dad’s house. We also watched “Donald Duck’s Christmas” on TV. An American Disney Channel special, it was dubbed in Swedish. I was told that for kids, Christmas does not start until Donald Duck comes on. In this overall un-religious country, it is more Christmas than the Christmas Story. 

After a nap (napping happened a lot on this day), we ate another meal at his mother’s house and opened more presents. We also watched another very traditional TV show, whose major theme is a “Robin Hood” of Christmas who takes presents from the rich and gives them to the poor. It was all in Swedish, and to me very, very strange. Afterwards it it was off to Midnight Mass, which was a beautiful service. The songs were fairly similar, and I managed to sing along through most of it. 

The menu for the traditional Swedish Christmas dinner was quite different, as it included the following:

-Swedish Meatballs with lingon berries

 -Pickled Herring on brown bread (surprisingly I was a fan on this, even for Swedes it can be occasionally questionable)

-Smoked Salmon with Crème Fresh

-Little sausages that I think were made of pork. Harald just told me they were “Super Swedish”

-A salad of creamed beets and potatoes and vegetables

-“Julmust” A type of ultra-sweet soda. During the holidays more Julmust is sold than Coca-Cola 

-Shots of Snapps with dinner accompanied by singing

-“Julbeir” A dark beer sold only during Christmas. Every year in Sweden there is a competition among the breweries for the best Christmas Beer.

-Blood pudding, which is pretty much what it sounds like. I had a rough time with this one.

We also exchanged gifts. I got a sporty shirt, a warm hat, huckleberry jam from Montana and a mix CD of Swedish music. The guys loved the goofy Fez hats I brought them from Morocco, and Harald’s mother Kristina liked her Moroccan scarf.

The 25^th we made our appearance at the club in town, and danced the night away. Going out on the 25^th is bigger than New Years Eve, and John and I made it our mission as Americans to have more fun than anyone in the country. We fist-pumped until our arms were sore, I showed off my cowboy jitter-bug dancing skills, and did my good deed by escorting several lost boys out of the ladies room. As a group, the Swedes we met were beautiful, well dressed, and very friendly.

On the 26^th we went to a local hockey game. Hockey is huge in Sweden, and the 8,000 person stadium was almost sold out. It was really exciting to see game live, and the Karlstad team won by 2 goals, upsetting the ranking of the number one team in the country. After a dinner with Haralds dad, the guys left to continue their adventure with some skiing in France.

The enthusiasm everyone had for the holiday was contagious, and seeing Harald and John again made it even better. It was so good to know that I can be gone for four months, and the instant we start hanging out again it is like nothing is different. They both remarked on how I had changed, laughing at the fact that right now I only have in my possession four shirts and two pairs of pants. Despite the jokes about me becoming a dirty hippie, I know we are just as good friends now as we were when I left.

It was wonderful to spend Christmas with a family. Harald’s mom was so nice and welcoming, and their apartment near the river was warm and comfortable. Everyone made an effort to speak English to us, and I felt very much included in the family.

I am now in Lund, a Swedish city where Harald’s sister Tove studies. Tove brought an exchange student friend home for Christmas as well, a French girl named Elise. Elise invited me to stay with her for two nights, and go exploring in the city of Copenhagen, Denmark, which is only a 40 minute train ride away. On the 29^th I will make my way to Berlin for my next holiday adventure, New Years at the Brandenburg Gate. I could not have wished for a better Christmas.   

Roma! The Beginning

Rome, a city over 2,000 years old, described in six words: old stuff, more old stuff, and pasta. It really was fabulous, the awe I felt in being in the place where civilization begin, a place so full of history. It was a little overwhelming, having so much to see so close together and so little time to see it. My first stop after getting to my hostel was the Coliseum. The people at the airport had the foresight to give my directionally challenged self a map, and so I found the metro station and took it to the Coliseum. I wasn’t prepared for what I saw. Right there, in front of me, the building I had seen in so many pictures, a building that has seen the rise and fall of an empire. I was duly impressed. The same day I toured the ancient city, wandered among the ruins, and made an appearance at Saint Peter’s Basilica. The second day it was more ancient Rome in the Pantheon, the Baroque Period at the Fountain of Tervi, and Christmas Market at the Piazza Navona. I sat on the Spanish Steps and drank an espresso near the Castle of Saint Anglo. The last day I went with two people from my hostel to the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel.

The where I was (half the time I didn’t know) and what I saw (my next project is learning about all the things I saw. My art history education leaves much to be desired), I feel are less important than the impressions I got of Rome. In no particular order:

-Feeling like a tourist is expected there. Romping through the city, I feel I saw very few actual Romans whose jobs did not involved the tourist industry. The whole city felt a little empty of citizens, the few bars there were full of people speaking English, the cafes and restaurants catering mostly tourists. I have asked people I met about this, and they for the most part the citizens do not live in the city center, but rather in the suburbs.

-The city is old, the streets are narrow with no discernable layout. Its fortunate I generally don’t mind being lost, because even with my map I spent a lot of time really, really lost.

-It’s strange the things that made an impression on me. For instance, I felt very little in Saint Peters Basilica, mostly a mild distaste for the concept of using religion to build an empire. In the churches I found not religion, but only marble, cold and unyielding. I know that my personal bias may have something to do with this.

-However, things that did make an impression on me: the grace of the marble statues, beautiful in their forever frozen state. Also how simply OLD things were. Seeing buildings that have been standing before the Common Era. Trying to imagine myself in the year 70 BC and thinking about life in Ancient Rome is humbling.

It was an amazing trip, one I’d gladly take again. For now though, I’m happy to be in Sweden, to see my friends, and to have a jolly good Christmas.

Eurotrek: The Beginning

It is now 2:18am, Swedish time. I made it to Sweden safe and sound. I wrote this blog entry before coming to Rome, but figured I'd post it now since I have internet. The entry for Roma will be coming soon!

What a looong day! Originally, my plan was to leave Ifrane on a bus at 9pm Sunday night, making it to Marrakech at 5:30am, and have over 12 hours before I caught my flight to Rome. However, as usual in Morocco, things didn’t go as planned and the bus was full when I went to book by ticket. The next bus didn’t go out until 7am Monday morning, and expected to arrive in Marrakech at 4:30. My flight was scheduled to leave at 6:30. “Cutting it close” was a very accurate expression in regards to this situation. It was a rather stressful eight-hour bus ride, compounded by my seatmate, a lovely older woman who proceeded to violently throw up while sitting next to me. Luckily about halfway through she got off, and I had two seats to sleep in for the rest of the way. Despite the worries, it was a beautiful trip. I’m always amazed by the Moroccan countryside.

The airport check-in was surprisingly easy, and my flight was delayed for about 20 minutes, so I managed to make it with time to spare. Now I’m typing this somewhere over the Mediterranean Sea, with the plan to post it when I get to my hostel tonight around midnight, depending on if their wii-fi works. I’ve watched my favorite Christmas movie (The Santa Clause –remember that one? Tim Allen is awesome), and am just waiting for this day of travel to be over. While I’m waiting, I’ll type my itinerary for Eurotrek 2011, subject to change of course.

December:

19-22 Rome: Staying in a Hostel, Meeting Becca, Rocky alum who is now an Au Pair in Rome for coffee 

23-27 Karlstad, Sweden: Staying with fellow rocky-ites Harald, our friend John, and Harald’s family. His mom as already emailed me her welcome, put me into the Christmas gift exchange, and made arrangements for me to get from the Airport in Stockholm to Karlstad. I’ve been promised Christmas cookies, cider, parties, and jumping in a frozen lake like the “Real Swedes” do. It will be fabulous. Since it really hasn’t felt like Christmas in Morocco, I’m getting all the Christmas in I possibly can until the 25^th.

27-29 Copenhagen, Denmark: Either staying at the apartment of my Danish friend from AUI or getting a hostel

29- Jan 3 Berlin, Germany: Staying in a hostel, meeting a friend from London and possibly a fellow AUI exchange student for New Years at Brandenburg Gate

Jan 3- 7 or 8 Prague, Czech Republic: Possibly staying with Grant Phillips, who is a friend of my friend Peter, a Rocky Alum married to a Czech girl, pending contact. He said they will for sure be able to show me around the city a bit.

Jan 8-14 Linz, Vienna, and Salzburg, Austria: Staying with Peter, my good friend who was on exchange at Rocky. He’s promised me “the whole Austrian experience”, including campus life at his university, skiing, and a visit to the Spanish Riding School.  

Jan 14-???: Dublin, Ireland: Staying in a hostel. This is the last ticket I’ve booked. I’ve talked about meeting a friend from AUI there, and weather or not that happens will decide what I do next. Tentatively, I will go to Paris on the 18^th and then back to Morocco on the 22^nd. All that is for sure about this leg of the trip is that I will be back at AUI on the 23^rd for classes to start.   

This is the great adventure, 2011 (and 2012!). I can’t believe I’m going to see all the places I’ve seen in pictures: The Colosseum, the Brandenburg gate, the Berlin wall, the “Little Mermaid” of Copenhagen, the castles of Prague, and of course the Spanish Riding School, which I have been obsessed with since childhood… I can’t even list all the things I want to see.

 I fear only two things: Travel fatigue, since I’m taking a train, plane or bus about 15 times in five weeks, and sensory overload, simply not being about to take everything in. But I find that these are great problems to have in life. J

Yes family, I will be very, very careful. I will check my pockets, guard my purse, not take candy (or drinks!) from strangers, keep my wits about me, and follow local laws. Hundreds of thousands students do trips like this every single year, and they don’t have a single problem. I’ve worked hard for this and I know with everything you’ve taught me I’ll be just fine. I will have my computer and wii-fi most places I go, and will for sure Skype you around Christmas. If you email me a day in advance with a set time I should be able to make it, remember that I’m 8 hours ahead now. I love you all, I’m so grateful I am getting to have this experience. Will write more soon from some of the most fabulous places! 

The people who have made this experience...

With finals over and exactly 20 minutes until I go out for a "Final" hurrah, I suddenly got really sad about the people that will be leaving this semester. So this entry is dedicated to all the great friends I've made here... 

The first trip

Sneaking OJ into the Library (no drinks allowed!) 

Chillin in the Sunshine 

The gang!

CousCous Friday, the best day of the week

Horse Carts in Merrakech

I think in this picture there was a guy asking our friend how many camels I was worth. I kid you not. 

How NOT to study

Halloween 

One… Last…. FINAL!

I have exactly one more final, tomorrow at 8am and then I will have finished my first semester here at AUI. I’ve already had to say goodbye to some people, and it’s really starting to dawn on me that: 

A) I have really made a life for myself, completely starting from scratch, here in Morocco. It’s had it’s ups and downs, but I’ve managed to create a life that’s pretty damn good.

B) I might never seem most of these people again. People I’ve seen every day for the past four months, people who have witnessed the best and the worst. It’s really strange to think about.

Also, I was reviewing some of my first entries, thinking about what has changed, how I have changed. I was looking at my “goals” entry, and decided to evaluate how I’ve done. 

So here are my “Goal Grades” for the semester. 

Goal: Make every effort to adapt and integrate into the university, even when I miss home. On the flip side, I won't forget about home and all the wonderful people I have there.

Analysis: 8/10 Some of you may have heard that it was really, really rough in the beginning. The differences in the people, the language the school… They all made life rather challenging. I did eventually adapt, find my “place” here, but there are things I could have done to make it easier, especially in the beginning. I most certainly haven't forgotten all the people I love back home! 

Goal: Admit that there will be things about this lifestyle and culture I will never fully understand, and try to be as flexible as possible in those circumstances. 

Analysis: 10/10 I learned a really great expression around the middle of the semester “when in Morocco, nothing is strange” (It rhymes when said in Arabic). I see that almost every, single day. I’ve found such a contradiction in this culture, such a dual-mindedness. The same people that harass you on the street may invite you to their home for tea. Women in jellbas riding motorcycles, donkey carts in the street being passed by brand new BMWs. Those are all things I will never truly understand, but have come to love. 

Goal: Approach new experiences and diverse beliefs with an open mind, and not judge anyone based on their background.

Analysis: 9/10 It has been a big challenge for me, especially being so opposed to organized religion, to tolerate the religious aspects of everyday life here. The fact that everything is so ingrained in the Q’ran, from what people eat to who they marry, is really hard for me to understand. However, in learning about it, in talking to people with VERY different beliefs, I have come to appreciate, and even respect their faith. We’ve learned in our US and the Middle East Class (which I should be studying for now!) when “Islam” became interchangeable with terrorism in American culture. I feel after living here I can now say that anyone who finds them synonymous is either bigoted or simply ignorant.   

Goal: Ride a camel

Analysis: 0/10 Next Semester, it WILL happen! I still need to make it to the desert, there just wasn’t enough time. I have however, climbed the highest peak in North Africa, eaten sheep brain, seen the monkeys, went skydiving, and road to the beach in a fruit car. Not too bad….

Goal: Learn to cook a traditional Moroccan dish. Can you say Tajine?

Analysis: 6/10 OK, I haven’t made a tajine yet, but I have learned how to make insinmin, which is a little bit like Mexican fry bread. I’m still promising everyone a huge meal, eaten Moroccan style (no forks!) when I come home.

Goal: Travel as much as possible (as much as I can afford) both inside Morocco and in Europe.

Analysis: 10/10 I feel I’ve taken advantage of every opportunity to travel that has come my way. I’ve been to Fez, Meknes Assliah, Casablanca, Chefchouen, Mt. Toubkal, Essouria and Merrakech (twice!), London, Tangier, And I still have SO many more travels ahead!

Goal: Never pass up an opportunity to do something new and exciting.  

Analysis: 10/10 See above! The downside of this is that I get distracted from the present by planning future adventures. "There are so many fabulous far away places to see..." 

This semester, I’ve climbed mountains, swam in the ocean, seen cosmopolitan cities and tiny villages. For the first time I’ve felt homesick, and I’ve learned to appreciate the things that make home what it is. I’ve been completely alone, and I’ve found people I know would do anything for me. I knew that, despite some of the personal drama it caused, signing up to have this experience for a full nine months is perfect for me. I’m SO grateful that I get to come back to this country for another semester, and that in the meantime I get to explore some of the oldest and greatest cities in the world. Look out world, here I come! 

More Skydiving Photos- And some random stuff...

Had to steal some more pictures off of Facebook... 

All Mughrabee (Moroccan) Mosques have these square towers called minarets, from which the call to prayer is delivered 5 times a day. 

Roses in December! Reminds me of summer at home.. :) 

This grass is about 20 feet tall and grows everywhere in Morocco

The weather here is still beautiful, average of 60 degree and sunny. I had lunch outside today without a coat on. Fabulous. It's also weird to think that it's christmas season: no decorations, no christmas music, no annoying consumerist pressure to find "the Perfect gift". It just feels like.... Finals Week. :( In order to take a break from studying:  

My Life In Numbers:

0 Number of rounds of the WNFR I got to watch this year. I really think I'm the only person on this campus that cares, and you can't stream it online. I did follow on the website however. 

4 Number of Finals Left to Take

7 Number of days until I leave for Rome

Infinity: Amount of excited I am to travel Europe, adventure, and see some of my favorite people from RMC again!

Too Damn Many: Number of Arabic Vocab Words I need to know before my final on Wednesday. 

Flashcards! -Incidentally, I haven't met anyone who did not come from an American school system that uses these to study. 

One more thing...

My favorite Christmas Song. :)

Ok. Back to work. 

The Chinese Stir-Fry Realization

The other day our cafeteria had “Asian Day” and served up a mediocre stir-fry for lunch. Having been three months without consuming a single bit of cheap Chinese food, I exclaimed excitedly “Crappy Chinese food! It tastes like home!!” Why is it that those silly things, like crappy Chinese food and coffee from City Brew are so much home to us? Therefore, for this entry I will give a contrast of the little things that, to me, both make my home in the states and my home abroad what they are.

Montana:                                                                                           

Cowboy Coffee- In the Big Sky Country, coffee isn’t coffee unless it floats a horse shoe. All coffee espresso-based here, and drip coffee essentially doesn’t exist.

Morocco:

Mint Tea- Ultra-Sweet and packed with fresh mint leaves, sipping this out of glasses slightly bigger than a shot glass is a national hobby. Tea is a ritual and an experience here.

Montana:

Cowboy Boots-‘nuff said

Morocco:

Banana shoes- The proper name is babouche shoes, but I call them banana shoes ‘cause they’re generally bright yellow. The cowboy boots of Morocco, worn by people young and old, with convenient slip-off back for prayer time.  

                                              

Montana:

Church Bells- When I lived in Lewistown, the ring of church bells could be heard every afternoon and on Sundays.

Morocco:

Call to Prayer- Alllllaaah Akbar! The mosque on campus doesn’t give out the call to prayer, but on a clear day I can here the call “God is Great” coming from the mosque  in town. Even the smallest towns here have a tall minaret rising on their skyline. You can listen to the call to prayer on the youtube video. This one is actually a little different than the one given in Morocco, and the mosque they show is definitely not a Moroccan mosque. (I've learned all about the differences in my Islamic Architecture class!) 

Montana:

Driving my pickup- Although it gets an embarrassingly low mpg, driving my ½ ton Dodge pickup was a huge part of my life. I could throw all my crap in the back and take off down the open road… Or move to work in the summer.

Morocco:

Grand Taxis- Large, old Mercedes that always seem on the verge of breaking down (and one actually did break down on us), are the general modes of transportation for getting back to Ifrane. Up to six people cram into these things, making you get to know your fellow travelers (and their sweat) better than you’d like.

Montana:

Costco- The king of warehouse stores, there you can find a year’s supply of everything from toothpaste to taco shells

Morocco:

The Marché- Every town has a small cluster of tiny shops, each specializing in something different. From one man you can buy olives, another vegetables, another fruit. Not for those with weak stomachs, whole goats, heads still on, hang in the butchers shop.

Montana:

Steak and beans- My favorite “Montana” meal, a large tender cut of beef and navy beans with bacon that Mom always does best.

Morocco:

Tajine- Rhymes with D’Jeane, this dish usually contains some sort of ground meat “kefta” with a tomato-based sauce, or chicken “dejaj” with vegetables. The term Tajine refers to the pot rather than what is in the dish itself. There are also the more adventurous tajines, such as those containing sheep brain.  

These Moroccan things, so foreign to me before, are now very much part of my everyday existence. Montana is still my home, comfortable and familiar. There are days when I desperately just want to order Chinese takeout or get in my pickup and drive around. But things in Morocco are now a part of me as well, and when I come home, I predict there will be a time when I want to drink mint tea and take a grand taxi for a weekend of exploring.