Saturday, June 2, 2012

Coming to a Close, Part II


It's been a difficult day, but I promised this last entry, so I will deliver. I am currently sitting in my roommates house in Casa. Although Casa is by no means my favorite city in Morocco, her house in beautiful and her parents are very welcoming. Here are the final two parts of my closing entry.

Part Three: The Last Two Weeks
My final two weeks in Morocco could not have been better. I'm glad I did not take off right away when finals finished- there were too many goodbyes to say all at once, and too many places I wanted to take a final look at. I'm also glad I did not stay longer, especially since my ATM card broke the day before I left Ifrane. I managed to exchange the American cash I had been hoarding all year, but another week would have been virtually impossible. Lesson learned: Always have backup cash. Beyond that small inconvenience, our journey was fabulous. Highlights are as follows:

        FINALLY riding a camel. It only took me nine months what most tourists in Morocco do in five days, but no complaints. The ride itself was tall, uncomfortable, and slightly smelly. I don't think I'll be going into the camel business any time soon. The Sahara however, was surreal. The sheer enormity of the shifting, golden sand made me feel as if I were in a picture. It amazed me to think that people actually traveled across such a place. It was great fun to climb the dunes and play in the sand.

           Driving a stick-shift car thorough the high Atlas. After camel-time, we rented a car and headed for the ocean, stopping in pretty desert towns along the way. Since only two of the five of us could drive a manual, I drove about a third of the time. Some of the roads were far scarier than any I had ever seen: tiny strips of pavement full of sharp turns and switch-backs. The difficulty of the drive was compounded by the fact that EVERYONE in this country flashes their brights at you to warn they are coming. By the end of my first and only night drive, I wanted to smash something. We returned the car without a single mishap, and I am a better and more confident driver because of it. (PS- Thanks Chuck for teaching me to drive a manual last summer!)

          Couch surfing. (www.couchsurfing.org) Ok, I didn't want to tell you guys (mom, dad) that I was doing this, because I knew you'd worry. But it turned out wonderfully, we met some amazing people (a Kung Fu Instructor who let us into his class, and a guy in Sidi Ifni who made us tea on the beach). There were five us, we were safe, and it was a wonderful experience.

          Saying goodbye to Marrakech. I consider the fancy apartment I discovered there back in November my Moroccan home. After a week on the road, it was great to relax in a familiar neighborhood, drink fresh Orange Juice, and witness the spectacle of the Djmma-Al-Fina one last time.

          Laying on the beach. I spent the second week with two of my favorite girls, laying in the sun and getting our tan (ok, sunburn) on. We found a beautiful, clean, and harassment-free beach in Oulidia, and it was everything I wanted after a week of intense travel.

To sum it up, my last two weeks here were everything I wanted: beaches, camels, road-trips, and great friends.

Part Four: Saying Goodbye

Yesterday I said goodbye to four more of my good friends, and it was even more difficult than I imagined. Two of them I hope to see again very soon (viva la Portland! :D), the other two it may be awhile. I'm finding goodbyes are no less difficult, but I do prefer an efficient system. When the time comes I like a quick chat, a good hug, a few laughs, and occasionally passing them a small note, filled with the things I find to hard to say. I will miss the people I have found in the
I also want to (hopefully) iterate what I think will be going on in my mind when I come home. I have been away a long time: ten months of travel, of a strange culture, of everything being completely different from how I lived before. It has come to the point where I can picture home (my family, my friends, my favorite places), but I have trouble picturing myself at home. Adding to this is that one week from now I will be in a new house, in a new city, with new roommates and a new job. I have been away from those things for so long, I have trouble picturing what they are like.

I expect to be home and feel many of the things I felt upon coming here: slightly confused, quite scared, and on occasions a bit unhappy. It has nothing to do with the people I will return to (I can't wait to see all of you. Seriously. On a scale from one to bacon, my excitement to see my friends and family is a bacon-point-nine). I think my feeling will have much more to do with the word re-adjustment. Therefore, please be patient with me. I am not the same person that left, but I hope to be better, more focused. If nothing else, I'll have more stories, and I want to tell them to anyone who will listen. I may follow up with the blog through the total re-adjustment process, but I will have many other exciting plans and challenges that await.

As you may know, I spent the last three months in Africa. A wondrous, magical place. But as shadows lengthen across the KBHR window, thoughts turn to homecoming. Journey's end. Because in a sense, it's the coming back, the return which gives meaning to the going forth. We really don't know where we've been until we've come back to where we were. Only, where we were may not be as it was because of who we've become. Which is, after all, why we left.
-Bernard Stevens
Northern Exposure 

Friday, June 1, 2012

Coming To A Close, Part I


I started this blog entry about three weeks ago, when I was procrastinating on my finals. Sadly, I couldn't even finish what I was using to procrastinate, so here is the first part of my two-part closing. 


Part One: The Contrast
I have mentioned before that things here are such a contradiction : pre-marital sex is harram, (forbidden), but harassment is an unfortunate national pastime. Drinking in public can get you arrested, but the smell of hash in the street is not uncommon. Perhaps the greatest contrast however, is the one between the home and the street. I will contrast these extremes with two stories:

A couple weeks ago, I went to Fez. As we arrived at the gate of the Old Medina we could hear a commotion going on in a nearby cafe. Upon investigating, we found two men beating each other into pulp. This was not a drunken scuffle at the club, but a drag-out brawl worthy of Fight Club. Tables and chairs were overturned, broken glass flew, and a large group of people formed a circle around them. However, no one stepped in to stop the fight until one man's head and neck were covered in blood. Now, I know these things happen in the US as well, and it is only my sheltered small-townness that allowed me to go twenty years without seeing a real fight. However the intensity of the violence, in such a public place, on a regular weekday afternoon, was quite a shock.

To compare..

Tuesday before we left Ifrane, we went to Azarou, a small town about fifteen minutes away. We walked, shopped, and drank orange juice. As we were about to leave, we heared someone call out “Hey, remember me?” We turned around to find the mountain guide that had taken us hiking four months ago. He somehow recognized us and invited us to his house for tea. We entered his tiny apartment and he and his friends treated us to fresh squeezed orange juice, tea, and popcorn, we sat and chatted about Morocco, Ifrane, and crazy American customs. I felt so welcome, so at home. The afternoon ended with a gift of a bag of tea and wishes for safe travels. I left with a big smile on my face, loving life and everyone in it.

The polar opposites here never cease to amaze me. Life here seems more precarious and in some ways more precious to those who value it. It is not numbed or sterilized by perfectly manicured lawns and rows of identical houses. Instead it is vibrant, full of beautiful color and offensive smells, drab shacks and warm houses. I've grown to both love the contradictions and yet still be offended by some of them.

There you have the contrast of Morocco, what I feel is essence of the country I have spent the last nine and a half months.


Part Two: The Change
I've realized the travel does not give you some amazing worldly superior to those that have never left their home. Photos of myself in random places does not make me a better person, nor does my ability to navigate a medina make me more kind, generous or loving. What it has given me in a new sense of identity: I've learned what it means to be me: what habits I am willing to give up, what values I refuse to let go of. 

In some ways, I am stronger in my convictions. Witnessing a world where women are treated without true justice, where the disabled are often reduced to begging, where there is no recycling.. Living in that type of place has impressed upon me the necessity FOR those things, impressed upon me the necessity of basic rights for all people who are born into this world. 

I have also witnessed good things I want to take back with me: the generosity of people. Giving to the poor is one of the five pillars of Islam, and many people extend that type of hospitality to all those they meet. The Moroccan ability with language also inspires me- they catch on so fast, it makes my fumbling Arabic seem quite silly. It inspires me to learn more and continue my studies. I also have a deeper understanding of the religion, and how perceiving other nations as too fundamentally different has caused so much unnecessary pain.

This place has changed me in little ways as well. It's going to take awhile to stop stocking up on rest-stop toilet paper and kissing cheeks as greeting. I will still love cumin on everything and can not wait to share Moroccan tea, Tagine, and Arabic music with my friends and family. 

I have a bit more to say on my leaving, but I will save Parts Three and Four, My Last Two Weeks and Saying Goodbye for tomorrow. Good Night. 
A Sneak Preview of My Last Two Weeks. More To Come. 

Friday, May 18, 2012

Holy Smokes.

i'm done. I'm Done. I'M DONE!!! I can't believe it. I just took my last final, checked out of my dorm, shipped my luggage off to Casablanca, and said a few very sad goodbyes. I can't even process it completely right now. I'm sad and happy and excited and terrified all at the same time.. Which, come to think of it, was exactly how I felt when I left Montana. I have a few more blog entries to do, and 16 more days in this beautiful country with some amazing people. Tomorrow I head to the desert to ride camels and play in the sand, then it's Morocco Road Trip 4.0. Hopefully sometime during that time I will catch up on the last few entries and say some final goodbyes. More News Soon!
Oh, and that's me, my friend Alyssa, and the Frog I brought to a party.

Monday, May 14, 2012

You Might Be In Morocco If..

This is purely for the entertainment of my lovely friends. Time here is winding down, and I want to try and get my final thoughts in before I....  (tear/gulp/chin quiver/smile/gulp/tear) Leave.

You Might Be In Morocco If...

You use an (english) adjective and then the word “Bizaff”.

Traveling with seven people stuffed like sardines into an old Mercedes-Benz seems to be a normal form of transport.

You know that Camels taste good.

Following a stranger down a dark ally is a normal way to find housing for the night.

You think the Grand Hotel is where dreams die.. Or where dreams are fulfilled. Sometimes both happen in the same night.

40 Moroccan Dirhams (about 5 US Dollars) is a splurge for a meal.

Your weekdays are used to plan your traveling weekends.

Coucous Friday is the best lunch of the week.

You e-mail your parents begging for American peanut butter. When it arrives, it's better than Christmas.

As a female, you have been called a “Spice Girl” “Shakira” or asked if you could be traded for camels.

You brag about bargaining, asking for directions in another language, or finding your way around an Old Medina.

Twelve people eating off of one plate is a perfectly acceptable way to serve a meal. You are happy when everyone has some sort of eating utensil.

You have made some of the best friends you will ever have, and can not imagine your life without these new friends in it.  

Sunday, May 6, 2012

Food!


   I thought about doing this entry a couple of days ago while I was suffering from a serious case of food poisoning, which I am honestly surprised I have avoided this long, but I put it off until tonight. Awhile ago I stumbled across a project showing the differences in eating habits, food culture, and food availability around the world. The link was on my previous post, but you can also see it here if you are too lazy to scroll down. Since I don't really have time to assemble a Moroccan family with all their groceries,  I thought I would give a quick breakdown of food prices in Morocco.

1 Kilo (2.2 lbs) of "Kefta" or Ground Beef with spices - $10.60 USD
    This is the most expensive item on the food list, and is not usually available to poor people

4 Large tomatoes, onions, or peppers (when in season)- $1.17 USD
      I buy a lot of vegetables, and can usually feed four people a good mixture for about $2 

One medium-sized bag of "Lays" potato chips- $2.35

1 Kilo of strawberries- $1-$3USD, Depending on the season

1-1.5 Kilo of "Harsha", a hard, flat cake similar to cornbread- $1.41 USD
    This is delicious, often freshly cooked with jam, nutella or honey 

One Glass of Fresh-Squeezed Orange Juice- $0.50-$1USD  

1 Kilo of Almonds- $7 USD 

One glass of sweet mint tea or coffee- $1 USD 

One 8oz bottle of "Especial" Beer $2-$3USD

Food at a restaurant obviously varies greatly, from fancy sushi at $50 a plate to sandwiches that cost less than a dollar. It has been estimated (thanks to my lovely roommate) that a family would spend about $412 on food per month. 

Some pictures of my local grocery store. 





Thursday, April 26, 2012

One More Thing

I found this interesting:

http://www.dailykos.com/story/2008/5/26/102458/137/70/522670/

A post about food in Morocco is soon to come!

Things They Don't Tell You About Studying Abroad


I've been a bit lazy in the blogging lately, especially since the weather has gotten nicer and finals week in approaching.There are so more things I want to cover before I leave, so I'm going to attempt to get it all done. 


It's How You Look At It.
        The other day I mentioned something about “Living In Morocco”, and I was correct by another year-long exchange student that no, I “Study in Morocco” and, most importantly, have a set date to leave. The person who corrected me is constantly talking about what he misses back home, and is literally counting the days until his return to the US. He views this as a temporary escape from real life, whereas I view it as a drastic change IN my real life. I think that because I committed to this experience wholeheartedly, I am much happier with my decision.
You'll Miss Your Family
       Sorry family... But I didn't really expect this. Since it it near-impossible to just call home whenever I feel like it, I find myself looking forward to skype calls and emails much more. I am also much more appreciative of what they have done for me, especially in handling things while I'm away.

People Won't Get Your Jokes
      Unless you are with people from the same country 24/7, you will make jokes or tell stories that people will not understand. Some things just don't translate, and that is all part of the learning process.

You Won't Learn a Language Overnight
      It will become easier, but only over time. Language learning requires patience and a willingness to make mistakes, two things I struggle with. Learning Arabic has been especially difficult, since the colloquial in Morocco differs so much from what I learn in the classroom.

Weird Food Makes Your Body Do.. Weird Things
      I won't go into that one in detail. Let it suffice to say that there are delicious foods in Morocco that are better for me not to eat.  

You Will Learn Who Your Friends Are
      I have mentioned this before, but I will say it again. People who I have expected to stay in my life have virtually disappeared, and people who really care about me have managed to show it. I also know that there are people I will see again and it will be like nothing has changed.